Kerala Backwaters: The Complete Houseboat Guide for Alleppey and Kumarakom

Kerala's backwaters are a network of lagoons, lakes, rivers and canals stretching along the coast for hundreds of kilometres. Cruising them on a traditional houseboat, known locally as a kettuvallam, is one of India's most relaxing travel experiences. Instead of rushing from sight to sight, you simply sit back on the deck and watch village life drift past: children rowing to school, women washing clothes on stone steps, fishermen casting nets and paddy fields that sit below the water level, protected by narrow earthen bunds.

The kettuvallam was originally a cargo boat used to carry rice and spices along these waterways. Its curved hull is built from wooden planks stitched together with coir rope, traditionally without nails, and the roof is made of bamboo and woven palm leaves. Today these boats have been lovingly converted into floating homes with bedrooms, bathrooms, a sit-out deck and a small kitchen, giving you a private, slow-moving hotel on the water. This guide covers everything you need to plan your trip, from choosing between Alleppey and Kumarakom to what to pack.

Alleppey or Kumarakom?

Alleppey (also called Alappuzha) has the widest choice of houseboats and lively canals. It is the main houseboat hub of Kerala, with a large fleet ranging from simple boats to very luxurious ones. The canals here are busy and colourful, lined with coconut palms, small churches, temples, toddy shops and village homes. If you want variety, easy availability and a real sense of daily backwater life, Alleppey is a great choice. It also has a long beach and a historic lighthouse if you want to add a few hours on land.

Kumarakom, on the banks of Vembanad Lake, is quieter and home to a well-known bird sanctuary. Vembanad is one of the largest lakes in India, and the Kumarakom side feels more peaceful and resort-like. Many travellers combine a stay at a lakeside resort with a shorter houseboat cruise. Bird lovers should plan an early-morning walk in the sanctuary, where herons, egrets, kingfishers, darters and many migratory species can be spotted, especially in the cooler months.

Which should you pick? Families and first-timers who want lots of options and scenic village canals usually enjoy Alleppey. Honeymooners and travellers looking for calm, wide lake views and premium resorts often prefer Kumarakom. The two are close enough that you can easily combine them in one trip.

How to Reach

• By air: Kochi (Cochin) International Airport is the most convenient for both destinations, with good connections from major Indian cities. The drive to Alleppey or Kumarakom typically takes around two to three hours depending on traffic. Thiruvananthapuram airport is another option if you are combining the trip with Kovalam or Varkala.
• By train: Alappuzha has its own railway station, and Kottayam station is the closest for Kumarakom. Ernakulam is a major junction with trains from across the country.
• By road: Kerala has a good road network, and private cabs are the most comfortable way to travel between Kochi, Munnar, Thekkady and the backwaters.

Choosing Your Houseboat

Houseboats are broadly grouped into categories, and the experience changes quite a bit depending on which one you book.

• Deluxe boats offer air-conditioned bedrooms during the night. Air conditioning usually runs only for a fixed window in the night hours, and the open deck keeps you cool during the day. These are a good value choice for most travellers.
• Premium boats add better interiors and larger decks, with more comfortable furnishings, better bathrooms and more attentive service.
• Luxury boats have glass-walled lounges and full-day air conditioning. They are ideal in the hotter months and for those who want hotel-like comfort while still enjoying the views.

Boats also come in different sizes, from one-bedroom boats that are perfect for couples to multi-bedroom boats suited to families and groups of friends. A sharing houseboat, where you book a single room on a larger boat, is a budget-friendly option, while a private houseboat gives you the entire boat and crew to yourself.

Tips for Booking

• Book through a trusted operator and ask for recent photos of the actual boat, not just the category.
• Confirm what is included: meals, air-conditioning hours, drinking water, and any welcome drinks or snacks.
• Check that the boat carries proper licences and safety equipment such as life jackets.
• During long weekends, Christmas, New Year and Onam, demand is high, so book early.
• Ask about the route. Some boats spend more time in the wide lake while others explore narrower canals.

What to Expect On Board

Most overnight cruises start around noon and end the next morning. After check-in, you are welcomed with a fresh drink, often tender coconut water, and the boat sets off into the backwaters. The crew typically includes a captain, a cook and a helper, who take care of everything from navigation to serving meals.

Freshly cooked Kerala meals such as karimeen fry, appam and fish curry are included. Lunch is usually a traditional spread of rice, sambar, thoran, avial, pickles and a fish or chicken dish. In the evening you will get tea with snacks like banana fritters (pazham pori), followed by dinner. Breakfast may be appam with stew, puttu with kadala curry, or idli and dosa. Vegetarian and Jain meals can usually be arranged if you inform the operator in advance.

Due to local regulations, houseboats generally stop cruising after sunset and anchor at a designated spot for the night. This is a lovely time to relax on the deck, listen to the sounds of the village and enjoy the cool breeze. Some boats may stop at a village jetty so you can take a short walk, visit a local shop or watch toddy tapping.

Things to Do Around the Backwaters

• Shikara or canoe ride: Smaller boats can enter narrow canals that larger houseboats cannot reach, giving you a closer look at village life.
• Village walks: Visit coir-making units, paddy fields and local temples and churches.
• Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary: Best visited early in the morning.
• Snake boat races: If you travel in the monsoon season, look out for the famous boat races held around Alleppey, especially the Nehru Trophy Boat Race, which is usually held in August.
• Ayurvedic massage: Many resorts in Kumarakom and Alleppey offer traditional Ayurvedic treatments.

Best Time to Go

September to March brings pleasant weather, with comfortable days and cool evenings, which makes it the most popular season. December and January are peak months, so expect more boats on the water and higher demand. The monsoon months are beautiful and green, with lower prices for those who do not mind the rain. Watching rain fall on the lake from a covered deck is a magical experience, and the countryside looks its freshest. April and May can be hot and humid, so choose a boat with full-day air conditioning if travelling then.

Where to Stay Before or After Your Cruise

Most travellers spend one night on the houseboat and one or two nights on land. In Kumarakom, lakeside resorts with private cottages, infinity pools and Ayurveda centres are popular with couples. Alleppey has a mix of homestays, beach resorts and heritage properties. Staying at a homestay is a wonderful way to taste home-cooked food and learn about local culture from your hosts.

What to Pack

• Light cotton clothing and a light shawl or jacket for evenings.
• Mosquito repellent, as the waterways can attract insects around sunset.
• Sunscreen, sunglasses and a hat for time on the open deck.
• An umbrella or raincoat if you are travelling in the monsoon.
• A power bank, since charging points may be limited when the generator is off.

Practical Tips

• Respect local customs when walking through villages and ask before photographing people.
• Avoid throwing plastic or waste into the water; help keep the backwaters clean.
• Tipping the crew at the end of your cruise is customary and much appreciated.
• Keep children supervised on the deck at all times and ensure life jackets are available.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is a day cruise enough?

A day cruise gives you a good taste of the backwaters, but an overnight stay lets you enjoy the sunset, a quiet evening and the peaceful early morning, which many travellers say is the highlight.

Is a houseboat safe for children and senior citizens?

Yes, houseboats move slowly on calm waters. Choose a boat with easy boarding and a ground-level bedroom if mobility is a concern, and inform the operator in advance.

Whether you choose the bustling canals of Alleppey or the serene shores of Kumarakom, a night on a Kerala houseboat is a memory you will treasure, and Ilahi Tours would be happy to help you plan it.